How to Store Potatoes

Posted on by

🥔 Start with the Right Spuds

Before we get into storage methods, here’s your golden rule: Only store healthy potatoes. Soft spots, green skin, or any sign of rot? Set those aside to use quickly (or toss if they’re past saving).

Also: Let them cure!
Curing hardens the skin and helps your potatoes last longer in storage.

How to cure potatoes:

Brush off loose dirt (don’t wash them yet).
Lay them in a single layer in a cool (50–60°F), dark, and well-ventilated place.
Let them cure for about 7–14 days.

Now that they’re ready, here are your best storage options—from root cellar classics to freezer fixes.

🧺 Method #1: Storing Fresh Potatoes (Cool and Dry)

This is the most traditional—and easiest—way.

Best for: All-purpose use over the next 2–6 months
Ideal varieties: Russet, Yukon Gold, Kennebec (not baby potatoes or thin-skinned types)

How to do it:

Keep them in a dark, cool place (ideally 38–45°F)
Use paper bags, burlap sacks, baskets, or cardboard boxes—something breathable
Store them in a single layer if possible, or gently stacked with airflow
Avoid sunlight (it turns them green and toxic)
Don’t store near onions or apples—they release gases that cause sprouting

Check weekly and remove any soft or sprouting potatoes.

❄️ Method #2: Freezing Potatoes

Wait—can you freeze potatoes? Yes! But you can’t just toss raw spuds in the freezer. They’ll turn weird and watery. You’ve got to prep them first.

Best for: Quick cooking later (soups, hash, casseroles)
Good varieties: Waxy types (like Red Norland or Yukon Gold) hold texture better

Step-by-step:

Peel (or scrub if you’re leaving skin on).
Cut into cubes, slices, or fries.
Blanch in boiling water:
- Cubes: 3–5 minutes
- Slices: 2–3 minutes
- French fries: 4–6 minutes
Cool in ice water right after blanching.
Drain well and pat dry.
Spread them on a baking sheet to flash-freeze (so they don’t stick together).
Once frozen, transfer to freezer-safe bags or containers.

They’ll keep 10–12 months and are great straight from frozen—no thawing needed.

🫙 Method #3: Canning Potatoes (Pressure Only!)

If you want shelf-stable spuds, canning is a fantastic route. But remember—you must use a pressure canner, not a water bath.

Best for: Long-term storage without taking up freezer or fridge space
Best potatoes: Firm, waxy ones (they hold up better)

Here’s how:

Peel and cube potatoes (1–2” chunks).
Boil for 2 minutes, then drain.
Pack into hot, sterilized jars with 1” headspace.
Add boiling water or broth to cover.
Remove air bubbles and adjust headspace.
Add lids and rings (fingertip tight).
Pressure can at 10–11 pounds:
- Pints: 35 minutes
- Quarts: 40 minutes
Let cool, check seals, and label.

Store in a dark, cool pantry. They’ll last up to 1 year.

Use canned potatoes for soups, stews, mashes, or skillet breakfasts!

🧂 Method #4: Dehydrating Potatoes

Got a dehydrator? This method turns potatoes into lightweight, shelf-stable goodness.

Best for: Camping, food storage, homemade “instant” potatoes
Good varieties: Any firm-fleshed potato

Instructions:

Peel and slice thin (for chips) or cube (for dices).
Blanch:
- Slices: 4–6 minutes
- Dices: 5–7 minutes
Dehydrate at 125–135°F:
- Chips: 6–8 hours
- Dices: 10–12 hours
They’re ready when completely dry and brittle.

Store in airtight containers in a cool, dark, dry place. Use within 12 months.

To rehydrate: soak in hot water 15–30 minutes or add directly to soups.

🧊 Bonus Method: Mashed Potato Freezer Packs

Perfect for comfort food lovers!

How to do it:

Make mashed potatoes like usual (but skip the butter and milk).
Let them cool.
Scoop into portions on a baking sheet or into silicone molds.
Freeze, then bag up.

To serve: reheat from frozen, add butter or milk, and enjoy! Great for quick weeknight dinners.

🍽️ Tips to Keep Your Taters Happy

No washing before storage! Moisture = mold.
Watch for green skin. That’s solanine. It’s toxic. Cut off green areas or toss them.
Don’t store in the fridge. It messes with the starch and makes them too sweet.
Store in darkness. Light triggers sprouting.

🧤 What About Sweet Potatoes?

Different story! Sweet potatoes need a warmer curing period (about 80–85°F) and prefer storage at 55–60°F. Don’t store them with regular potatoes.

🥔 Wrapping Up in a Cloud of Potato Dreams

Storing potatoes from your garden is a satisfying end to a season of growth. Whether you’re tucking them into a root cellar, freezing them for quick dinners, or canning jars of golden cubes, one thing’s clear:

You’ve grown something good.

And now, you’re preserving it with care.

So here’s to every crispy fry, creamy mash, and savory soup that’s still to come. Because garden potatoes? They’re not just food—they’re future comfort on a plate.

When to Plant and How to Grow Apple Trees in Alabama

Posted on by

Ah, apple trees—those iconic bearers of crisp, juicy fruit, evoking images of wholesome orchards, homemade pies, and that one apple you swore tasted sweeter because you picked it yourself. If you’re an Alabamian (or an honorary one), you might be wondering if growing apples in the Heart of Dixie is worth your time. Spoiler alert: it absolutely is!

But before you rush off to plant an orchard in your backyard, let’s talk about the when, where, and how of planting and growing apple trees in Alabama. Because let’s face it—this isn’t Washington state, and if you treat your apple trees like they’re in an evergreen wonderland, you might end up with a sad little twig instead of a fruitful bounty.

Best Time to Plant Apple Trees in Alabama

Timing is everything. Planting apple trees in Alabama is all about working with the seasons, not against them.

Late Winter to Early Spring (January – March): This is the best time to plant bare-root apple trees. The cool soil and moderate temperatures help the tree establish strong roots before the summer heat kicks in.
Late Fall (November – December): In South Alabama, where winters are mild, fall planting is possible. This allows the tree to develop roots before the next growing season.

Why Not Summer?

Let’s explore why summer planting is risky, what happens when you try, and when the right time truly is. Alabama summers are no joke. If you plant in summer, your apple tree will likely fry like a piece of catfish in a cast-iron skillet. Heat stress, lack of proper root establishment, and excessive watering needs make summer planting a no-go.

Apple trees are a joy to grow. They provide shade, blossoms in spring, and delicious fruit in the fall. But timing matters. Planting them at the wrong time can set them back or even cause failure. Many gardeners wonder about summer planting. After all, the soil is warm and growth is in full swing. But here’s the truth—summer is not the best time to plant an apple tree, especially in places like Alabama where the heat is intense.

Planting in summer puts apple trees under stress right from the start. In summer, soil temperatures are high and the air is hot. Young apple trees with tender root systems struggle to keep up with water loss. Instead of focusing on establishing roots, they spend all their energy just surviving.

Apple trees need consistent, deep watering when first planted. In summer, evaporation is high, and watering becomes a daily chore. Miss a day or two, and the tree can wilt or die. Even with regular watering, roots may not absorb enough because the soil dries too fast.

Moving a tree from a nursery pot into the ground is stressful. Doing it in midsummer heat makes that stress worse. Leaves droop, edges turn brown, and growth slows down.

Choosing the Right Apple Varieties for Alabama

Not all apples are suited for the sultry Southern climate. Forget about growing Honeycrisp (unless you enjoy heartbreak). Instead, opt for apple varieties that tolerate heat, humidity, and mild winters.

Anna – A low-chill variety that thrives in warmer climates.
Dorsett Golden – A cousin of the Golden Delicious, great for Alabama’s mild winters.
Ein Shemer – A reliable, self-pollinating variety that produces well.
Fuji – Slightly more cold-tolerant, but still manageable in Alabama.
Arkansas Black – An old Southern favorite, known for its firm texture and rich flavor.

Apple Trees Need Friends: Why Cross-Pollination Matters

Apple trees may look sturdy and self-reliant, but when it comes to producing fruit, they can’t usually do it alone. Most apple varieties need pollen from a different apple tree to set a healthy crop. Planting the right partners together makes the difference between a handful of apples and a basket full.

Apple blossoms contain both male and female parts, but many varieties are self-incompatible. That means their pollen isn’t effective on their own flowers. Bees, butterflies, and even wind can carry pollen, but without a compatible partner tree nearby, fertilization rarely happens.

Not every apple tree blooms at the same time, so compatibility matters. To maximize your harvest:

Match bloom times: Early-blooming varieties should be paired with other early bloomers, and late bloomers with late ones.
Mix different varieties: For example, ‘Fuji’ pairs well with ‘Gala’ or ‘Honeycrisp,’ while ‘Granny Smith’ often serves as a universal pollinator.
Keep it close: Plant apple trees within 50 feet of each other. This makes the bees’ job easy and keeps pollen moving between blossoms.
Think beyond two trees: Adding a third compatible tree gives you a stronger safety net for pollination.

When we plant apple trees together, we’re creating more than just a landscape—we’re building a community that thrives on cooperation. Two or three compatible varieties planted side by side invite pollinators to dance across the blossoms, setting the stage for a harvest that’s generous, reliable, and sweet.

Selecting the Perfect Planting Spot

Location, location, location. Your apple tree needs a prime piece of real estate to thrive.

Sunlight Requirements

Aim for at least 6–8 hours of full sun per day.
More sun = more photosynthesis = more apples.

Soil Requirements

Well-draining soil is key. Apple trees despise wet feet.
Sandy loam with a pH of 6.0-6.5 is ideal.
If your soil is heavy clay, consider raised beds or amending it with compost and sand.

Spacing

Give your trees room to breathe! Proper spacing prevents disease and ensures each tree gets enough sunlight.

Dwarf varieties: 8–10 feet apart
Semi-dwarf varieties: 12–15 feet apart
Standard varieties: 15–20 feet apart

How to Plant an Apple Tree in Alabama

Alright, you’ve got the perfect variety and the perfect spot—now let’s get that tree in the ground.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Dig a Hole
- Make it twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball.
- This gives roots plenty of room to spread.
Prep the Soil
- Mix in compost to improve drainage and fertility.
- Avoid chemical fertilizers at planting—they can burn young roots.
Place the Tree
- Position the tree so the graft union (the bump where the tree was grafted) is 2 inches above the soil.
- This prevents the rootstock from taking over.
Backfill and Water
- Fill the hole with soil and gently tamp it down to remove air pockets.
- Water deeply right after planting to help roots settle.
Mulch for Moisture
- Apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around the base, but keep it away from the trunk.
- Mulch retains moisture and suppresses weeds.

Caring for Your Alabama Apple Tree

Planting is just the beginning. Now comes the part where you prove your green thumb.

Watering

Young trees (first year): Water once or twice a week (about 5-10 gallons).
Mature trees: Water every 7–10 days during dry periods.
Avoid overwatering. If the soil feels soggy, give it a break.

Fertilizing

Apply a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring before new growth starts.
Don’t overdo nitrogen—too much will give you a leafy tree with no apples.

Pruning

Best time: Late winter (January–February), before bud break.
Goal: Remove dead or crowded branches to improve air circulation.
Tip: Keep an open center shape to let sunlight reach all parts of the tree.

Pest and Disease Control

Alabama’s humidity is a breeding ground for pests and diseases. Keep an eye out for:

Fire Blight: Causes branches to look scorched. Prune infected parts ASAP.
Apple Scab: Causes dark spots on leaves and fruit. Use resistant varieties.
Codling Moth & Apple Maggots: Wrap tree trunks with sticky bands to trap larvae.

Use organic sprays like neem oil or integrated pest management techniques to keep issues at bay.

When to Expect Apples

Patience, young orchardist. Apple trees don’t operate on instant gratification.

First fruits: Usually in 2-4 years for dwarf varieties and 4-6 years for standard trees.
Peak production: Around 7-10 years.
Harvest time: Most apples in Alabama ripen between July and October, depending on the variety.

To check if an apple is ripe, give it a gentle twist—if it comes off easily, it’s ready!

Is It Worth It?

Growing apple trees in Alabama takes planning, patience, and a willingness to fend off the occasional pest invasion. But the reward? Fresh, homegrown apples that taste better than anything store-bought.

So, roll up your sleeves, dig in, and start growing your very own Alabama apple orchard. And when you finally bite into that first crisp apple, you’ll know it was worth every drop of sweat.

Happy planting! 🍏🌳

When and How to Grow Peas in Alabama

Posted on by

Planting Peas in Alabama: Timing, Tricks, and a Good Harvest

Peas are one of those crops that make us feel like garden wizards. We drop a few hard little seeds in cool dirt, and a few weeks later we’ve got green vines and sweet pods. It’s simple. It’s hopeful. And in Alabama, it’s all about timing.

Peas are not heat lovers. They don’t “push through” summer. They melt. So we work with our seasons, not against them. Do that, and peas will treat us right.

One quick note before we start: this guide is for cool-season peas—English (garden) peas, snap peas, and snow peas. Not southern peas or cowpeas. Those are a different story and a different season.

The Best Time to Plant Peas in Alabama

In Alabama, peas like the weather we get when we’re still wearing a jacket in the morning but thinking about taking it off by lunch.

Spring planting window

Late January to early March is the sweet spot for most of the state.
South Alabama can often start earlier.
North Alabama may need to wait a bit longer if the ground stays cold.

Pea seeds can sprout in cool soil, but they do better when the soil isn’t icy. If the ground is soggy and cold, seeds may rot before they wake up.

Fall planting window

Late August to early September can work for a fall crop.
The trick is getting plants established before heat hangs on too long, then letting them set pods as nights cool.

Fall peas are a gamble some years, but they can pay off big if the weather cooperates.

The temperature rule we live by

Peas grow best when temps run 55°F to 70°F. When days start pushing into hot spring weather, peas rush, stress, and fade.

So we plant early enough to get pods before heat shows up like an uninvited guest.

Picking the Right Pea Varieties for Alabama

We want peas that can handle Alabama’s mood swings: chilly starts, wet spells, and a spring that can turn hot fast.

Garden peas (English peas)

These are the classic shelling peas. We eat the peas inside the pod.

Good choices: ‘Wando’ (handles warmth better than many), ‘Green Arrow’ (reliable and tasty)

Snap peas

We eat the whole pod. Sweet, crisp, and great right off the vine.

Good choice: ‘Sugar Ann’ (early and dependable)

Snow peas

Flat pods we pick before the peas swell. Great for stir-fries and salads.

Look for types labeled early or heat-tolerant when possible.

If we’re new to peas, snap peas are often the easiest win. They produce fast, and we don’t have to shell anything. That’s a fine deal.

Soil Prep: What Peas Want Under Their Feet

Peas are polite plants. They don’t demand luxury. But they do need decent soil.

The soil peas like

Well-drained (peas hate wet feet)
Loamy (crumbly, not brick-hard)
pH around 6.0 to 7.5

A simple prep plan

Clear the bed of old roots and weeds.
Mix in compost or well-rotted manure.
Loosen the soil about 6–8 inches deep.
Rake the top smooth so seeds sit at an even depth.

If your soil is heavy clay (hello, Alabama), compost helps a lot. Raised rows help even more. The goal is drainage and air. Roots need both.

How to Plant Peas Step by Step

Peas are easy to plant. The mistake we make is planting too deep or too crowded.

Planting basics

Depth: about 1 inch deep
Spacing: about 1 inch apart (we can thin later if needed)
Row spacing: 18–24 inches apart

After planting, water gently. We want moisture, not a flood.

Should we soak seeds first?

You can, but you don’t have to. Soaking can speed sprouting, but in wet soil it can also invite rot. If the bed is already cool and damp, we skip soaking and let nature do its thing.

Add support early

If we’re growing climbing peas, put in support before the vines get long.

Trellis, fence, or stakes work fine.
Even short “bush” types do better with a little support in wind and rain.

A good trellis also helps air flow, which matters in our humid springs.

Watering and Feeding Without Overdoing It

Peas like steady moisture, especially when flowering and filling pods.

Watering

Aim for about 1 inch of water per week.
Water deep, not shallow and daily.
Keep soil moist, not swampy.

Mulch helps a lot. Straw, shredded leaves, or pine straw works fine. Mulch keeps the soil cooler, holds moisture, and cuts down weeds.

Fertilizer

Peas are light feeders. In fact, too much nitrogen can make leafy vines and fewer pods.

Compost is usually enough.
If soil is poor, a small dose of balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) can help.
Go easy. We’re growing pods, not a vine jungle.

One handy tip: peas make some of their own nitrogen with help from soil bacteria. If peas have struggled in that bed before, using a pea inoculant can help. Not required, but useful.

Common Pea Problems in Alabama (And What We Do)

Alabama gardens can be tough on peas because we get warm days and humid air. That’s a party for pests and fungus.

Pests we may see

Aphids: tiny sap-suckers that cluster on tips
Slugs: chew holes, mostly at night
Pea weevils: can damage pods and seeds

What helps:

Spray aphids off with water or use insecticidal soap.
Keep beds tidy and use mulch wisely to reduce slug hideouts.
Pick pods on time and don’t leave old pods hanging.

Diseases to watch

Powdery mildew: white coating on leaves
Root rot: from soggy soil

What helps:

Plant where air moves (don’t crowd).
Use a trellis.
Water the soil, not the leaves.
Don’t overwater. Drainage is everything.

Harvesting Peas for Best Flavor

Peas reward fast picking. The more we harvest, the more they produce—up to a point.

When to pick

Garden peas: pods plump, peas filled out, still sweet
Snap peas: pods full and crisp, seeds still small
Snow peas: pods flat, before seeds swell

Pick in the morning if you can. Pods are crisp and cool then. Also, try not to “yank.” Hold the vine with one hand and pick with the other. Vines can snap if we get rough.

How to Get More Peas From the Same Space

If we want bigger harvests, we don’t need magic. We need habits.

Succession planting

Plant a small batch every 2–3 weeks during the cool window. That spreads harvest out instead of giving one big flush and then nothing.

Crop rotation

Don’t plant peas in the same spot every season. Rotation helps reduce disease and pest buildup.

Companion planting

Peas play well with:

carrots
radishes
turnips

Avoid planting peas right next to onions and garlic if you can. They tend to stunt each other.

Know when to quit

When warm weather really settles in, peas decline. Don’t fight it. Pull them, compost the vines, and switch to a heat-lover. A good gardener is stubborn, sure—but also practical.

The Simple Pea Plan That Works

If we boil it down, pea success in Alabama is this:

Plant early for spring, and early again for fall if you try it
Use well-drained soil with compost
Give climbing peas a trellis
Water steady, feed light
Harvest on time and keep picking

Peas are a cool-season gift. They show up when the garden is waking up, and they leave before the heat gets rude. That’s fine. We’re not here to force nature. We’re here to eat well.

A Row of Peas Is a Promise

There’s something steadying about peas. They come in a season when we’re itching to plant, but it’s still too early for the summer stuff. They give us something green to tend. Something to look forward to.

And when we finally pop that first sweet pod and taste it right there in the yard—well, that’s the kind of moment that keeps us gardening. Even when it’s humid enough to swim through the air.

When and How to Plant Sweet Potatoes in Alabama

Posted on by

Sweet potatoes fit Alabama like a well-worn glove. They love our long, warm summers. We love how they taste in just about anything—from a weeknight skillet to a holiday casserole that makes folks act like it’s a family heirloom.

But sweet potatoes are also a little picky. Not fussy. Just specific. If we plant too early, they sulk. If the soil stays wet, they rot. If we feed them like tomatoes, they grow a jungle of vines and forget to make the good stuff underground.

Let’s keep it simple and get it right.

Sweet Potatoes vs. “Cool Season” Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are warm-season crops. They want heat. They want long days. They want soil that feels like summer, not spring pretending.

Cool-season potatoes (the Irish potato type) are the opposite. They like cool weather and get grumpy in heat. So when we talk sweet potatoes here, we’re talking planting after frost, in warm soil, for a summer-to-fall harvest.

This blog post is for the warm season type of potatoes. Check out this page for cool season potatoes.

Why We Grow Them (Besides the Taste)

Sweet potatoes pull double duty: they’re tasty and they’re good for you.

They’re packed with vitamin A (that deep orange color is doing work), plus vitamin C and fiber. They’re also steady energy—more “slow burn” than “sugar spike.” That makes them handy for folks who watch their blood sugar.

And in the garden? They’re productive. A small patch can give you a real pile of food, which feels like winning twice.

Best Varieties for Alabama

Alabama is sweet potato country, so we’ve got options. These three are safe bets:

Beauregard

This one is famous for a reason. High yield, good disease resistance, and it handles our heat well. If we had to pick one for a first-timer, this is it.

Jewel

Smooth texture, orange flesh, great baked. It’s the kind of sweet potato that makes you think, “Why don’t we eat this more often?”

Covington

Uniform shape, dependable flavor, and a strong track record in warm regions. It’s a solid choice if you like consistent results.

If you’re buying slips locally, these are also the names you’ll see most often, which makes life easier.

When to Plant Sweet Potatoes in Alabama

Here’s the big rule:

Plant after the last frost and after the soil warms.

In most of Alabama, that lines up around late April through early May. South Alabama can often plant earlier. North Alabama may need to wait a bit longer.

Sweet potatoes really start moving when soil temps stay above 65°F. If we plant into cold ground, slips sit still, roots stall, and growth gets uneven. That sets us back before we even start.

A simple way to time it

Wait until nights stay mild
Let the soil warm for a week or two after your last frost
Use a soil thermometer if you want to be precise

If the soil feels cool on your bare hand in the morning, it’s not time yet.

Soil Prep: How We Set the Table

Sweet potatoes want soil that drains fast and stays loose. Think sandy, crumbly, easy digging.

Aim for:

Well-drained soil
Slightly acidic pH (about 5.8–6.2)
Lots of organic matter
Loose texture down 10–12 inches

If your soil is heavy clay (and a lot of Alabama soil is), we can still grow sweet potatoes—but we need to help the soil breathe.

The easiest fix: raised beds or mounds

Raised rows warm faster and drain better. That’s a sweet potato’s love language.

Make mounds or beds about 8–12 inches tall
Work compost into the top layer
Keep it fluffy, not packed tight

Fertilizer: don’t overdo it

Sweet potatoes don’t need rich, high-nitrogen soil. Too much nitrogen makes vines go wild and tubers stay small.

A light, balanced fertilizer at planting is fine. Compost is great. Just don’t dump on heavy nitrogen and expect magic.

Slips: What We Plant and Why

We don’t plant sweet potatoes from “seed” like beans. We plant slips, which are young shoots grown from a sweet potato.

You can:

Buy slips (fast, easy, reliable)
Grow your own slips (fun, but takes time)

If we grow our own slips

Start 6–8 weeks before planting time
Keep a sweet potato warm and slightly moist
Let sprouts grow to 6–10 inches
Twist them off and root them in water or damp mix

Buying slips is often the simplest move, especially if we want good varieties without guessing.

How to Plant Slips the Right Way

This part is simple, but spacing matters.

Planting basics

Space slips 12–18 inches apart
Rows 3 feet apart
Bury the slip deep, leaving only the top leaves above soil
Press soil gently around it so the roots touch good dirt

Sweet potato vines like to roam. Give them room, and they’ll repay you.

Traditional rows vs. raised beds

Both work. Raised beds just make things easier:

warmer soil sooner
better drainage
easier digging at harvest

If your garden holds water, raised beds aren’t optional. They’re the difference between “nice harvest” and “sad mush.”

Caring for Sweet Potatoes All Summer

Sweet potatoes are tough once established, but they do best with steady care early on.

Watering

Water deeply about once a week
Keep soil moist the first few weeks
After that, they handle heat better than most crops

Avoid constant soggy soil. That’s when rot shows up.

Feeding

Keep feeding light.

A small side-dress of compost mid-season is fine
If leaves look too pale, a mild balanced feed helps
If vines are huge and tubers are small, we fed too much nitrogen

Weeds

Weeds steal heat and space early on. Weed the first month, then vines will shade the soil and do a lot of the work for you.

Pests to watch in Alabama

Sweet potato weevil (a serious one)
Wireworms
Occasional leaf-eaters

Clean garden habits help a lot:

Rotate crops (don’t plant sweet potatoes in the same spot every year)
Remove old plant trash
Don’t leave damaged tubers in the soil

Harvest Time: When to Dig

Most sweet potatoes are ready 90–120 days after planting. You’ll know you’re close when:

vines slow down
leaves start yellowing
nights begin cooling off

Don’t wait for a hard frost. Cold can damage the roots fast.

How to dig without heartbreak

Sweet potatoes bruise easy. Use a garden fork and start digging well away from the main stem. Loosen soil, then lift carefully.

If we slice them with a shovel, they’ll still taste fine—but they won’t store as long.

Curing and Storage: The Step People Skip (And Regret)

Fresh-dug sweet potatoes aren’t at their best yet. Curing turns starch into sugar and heals small cuts.

Curing basics

About 85°F
High humidity
7–10 days

A warm garage, shed, or enclosed porch can work if it stays warm. Lay them out in a single layer. Don’t wash them.

Storage after curing

Cool, dark, dry place
Around 55–60°F is ideal
Don’t refrigerate (it hurts flavor and texture)

Stored right, they can last for months. That’s garden gold.

The Patch Plan That Usually Wins

If we want the “easy win” version, here it is:

Plant slips late April to early May (when soil is warm)
Use raised beds or mounds if drainage is iffy
Feed lightly, water weekly early on
Dig before cold nights get serious
Cure, then store cool and dark

Sweet potatoes don’t ask for perfection. They ask for warmth, loose soil, and a little patience.

A Good Harvest Feels Like a Small Miracle

There’s something honest about digging sweet potatoes. You spend all summer looking at vines and guessing. Then one day you lift the soil and—well—there it is. Hidden work. Real food. A quiet payoff.

So let’s plant them when the ground is ready, not when we’re impatient. Let’s keep the soil loose, the water steady, and the fertilizer sensible. Do that, and Alabama will do the rest.

When and How to Plant Corn corn in Alabama

Posted on by

The rhythmic hum of life in Alabama holds a secret that every gardener in the state knows—the timing for planting corn. We’re about to embark on a journey through the heart of Alabama’s fields, where the soil cradles seeds with the promise of golden harvests. Join us as we explore the steps to ensure your corn thrives amid the warm embrace of the Alabama sun.

Alabama’s unique climate, with its hot summers and mild winters, creates an ideal environment for growing corn. The state’s long growing season, stretching from late spring to early fall, provides ample time for corn to mature fully. This climate, however, requires careful consideration of timing to avoid the sweltering heat that can stress young plants.

Selecting the Right Corn Variety

Choosing the right variety is akin to picking the perfect melody for a song. Alabama’s climate favors heat-tolerant varieties:

Sweet Corn: For those who cherish sweetness with each bite.
Field Corn: Ideal for those focusing on livestock feed or cornmeal.
Popcorn: Perfect for those looking to add a bit of magic to movie nights.

When selecting a variety, consider your garden’s microclimate, soil type, and personal preferences. Consult local nurseries or extension services to find varieties proven to flourish in Alabama.

Preparing the Soil

Your soil is the canvas upon which your corn will paint its story. Here’s how to prepare it:

Test Your Soil: Ensure the pH level is between 5.8 and 6.8. Amending your soil with lime can help achieve this balance if needed.
Add Organic Matter: Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure to improve soil structure and fertility.
Till the Soil: Break up any large clods and create a fine, even seedbed to encourage strong root development.

Spacing and Planting Depth

Corn’s growth is a dance, and spacing is the choreography. Plant your seeds:

Spacing: 8-12 inches apart within rows and 30-36 inches between rows.
Depth: 1-2 inches deep, ensuring good seed-to-soil contact for optimal germination.

Watering and Fertilizing

Corn plants, with their towering stalks, thirst for water and nutrients:

Watering: Aim for 1-1.5 inches of water per week, ensuring even moisture throughout the growing season.
Fertilizing: Apply a balanced fertilizer at planting. Side-dress with nitrogen-rich fertilizer when plants are about knee-high to support vigorous growth.

Managing Pests and Diseases

Gardening in Alabama means being vigilant against common pests and diseases:

Pests: Look out for corn earworms, cutworms, and aphids. Use organic insecticides or introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs.
Diseases: Watch for signs of rust, blight, and smut. Rotate crops annually and ensure good air circulation to minimize risks.

Harvesting Your Corn

The culmination of your efforts arrives when the corn is ready for harvest:

Signs of Readiness: The silks will turn brown, and the kernels will be plump and milky when pierced.
Harvesting: Firmly grip the ear, twist it downward, and pull it away from the stalk.

Growing corn in Alabama is more than just planting seeds; it’s a tender dance with nature, a reflection of your care and dedication. As you tend to your garden, remember that each step is a chapter in a story, culminating in the golden joy of a bountiful harvest. Embrace the journey, and may your cornfields thrive under the glorious Alabama sun.

Alabama Home Gardening

Posted on by

Gardening enthusiasts in Alabama are blessed with a diverse climate and rich soil that offer unique opportunities for home gardening. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a beginner, the combination of Alabama’s natural beauty and its supportive gardening community makes it an ideal place to grow your own garden oasis.

The Allure of Home Gardening in Alabama

Home gardening in Alabama is more than just a leisure activity; it’s a lifestyle that brings families and communities together. The state’s mild winters and hot summers provide a varied growing season that allows for a wide range of plants, vegetables, and flowers to thrive. The impact of home gardening extends beyond personal satisfaction, contributing positively to local communities by promoting sustainability and self-reliance.

Seasonal Gardening Tips

Understanding the seasonal nuances of Alabama’s climate is key to successful gardening. Here’s a comprehensive guide on what to plant and when:

Spring

Spring in Alabama is a season of renewal and growth. Ideal for planting:

Vegetables: Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash.
Flowers: Marigolds, petunias, and zinnias.
Herbs: Basil, cilantro, and parsley.

Summer

Summer gardening can be challenging due to the intense heat, but it’s also the time for harvesting:

Vegetables: Okra, eggplant, and sweet potatoes.
Flowers: Sunflowers, hibiscus, and periwinkle.
Herbs: Oregano, thyme, and rosemary.

Fall

Fall offers a second chance for planting cool-season crops:

Vegetables: Broccoli, kale, radishes, and lettuce.
Flowers: Mums, pansies, and asters.
Herbs: Chives and sage.

Winter

While winter is milder in Alabama, it’s still a good time for certain activities:

Vegetables: Garlic and onions.
Flowers: Camellias and hellebores.
Herbs: Indoor herb gardens flourish well during this time.

Sustainable Practices in Alabama Gardening

Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in the gardening community. Here are some eco-friendly practices that are gaining traction in Alabama:

Composting: Creating nutrient-rich compost from kitchen waste helps improve soil fertility.
Rainwater Harvesting: Collecting rainwater reduces dependence on municipal water supplies and is excellent for plants.
Native Plants: Growing native plants like Alabama azaleas and oakleaf hydrangeas conserves water and supports local wildlife.
Organic Methods: Using organic fertilizers and pesticides reduces chemical runoff and promotes a healthier garden ecosystem.

Community Spotlight: Alabama Gardening Groups and Events

Alabama is home to a vibrant gardening community with numerous groups and events that bring people together:

Alabama Master Gardeners Association: Offers training programs and volunteer opportunities for gardening enthusiasts.
Local Farmers’ Markets: Places like the Pepper Place Market in Birmingham provide a venue for gardeners to sell their produce and connect with others.
Gardening Workshops: Held throughout the state, these workshops offer practical advice and hands-on experience.
Garden Tours: Events like the Alabama Garden Tour showcase beautiful home gardens and provide inspiration.

Benefits of Gardening for Mental and Physical Health

Gardening is not only a fulfilling hobby but also has numerous health benefits:

Mental Health: Gardening reduces stress, anxiety, and depression by promoting mindfulness and offering a sense of accomplishment.
Physical Health: Activities like digging, planting, and weeding provide moderate physical exercise, improving cardiovascular health and flexibility.
Nutritional Benefits: Growing your own fruits and vegetables ensures access to fresh and organic produce, contributing to a healthier diet.

Practical Advice for Beginners

Starting a garden from scratch can be daunting, especially in Alabama’s unique climate and soil conditions. Here are some tips to help you get started:

Soil Testing: Conduct a soil test to determine its pH and nutrient levels, which will guide your fertilization strategy.
Raised Beds: Consider using raised beds to better control soil quality and drainage.
Crop Rotation: Practice crop rotation to prevent soil depletion and reduce pest problems.
Watering: Water deeply and infrequently to encourage strong root growth. Early morning watering reduces evaporation.
Mulching: Use mulch to retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Home gardening in Alabama offers a rewarding experience that combines beauty, sustainability, and community spirit. By following seasonal tips, practicing sustainable methods, and engaging with local gardening groups, you can create a thriving garden that brings joy and health benefits to your life. Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned pro, the unique climate and rich culture of Alabama provide the perfect backdrop for your gardening journey.

Echinacea Coneflowers in Alabama

Posted on by

Echinacea Coneflowers in Alabama

Echinacea, commonly known as coneflower, is a genus of herbaceous flowering plants in the daisy family. It is native to eastern and central North America, where it is found growing in moist to dry prairies and open wooded areas. They have large, showy heads of composite flowers, blooming from early to late summer. The genus Echinacea derives from the Greek word ‘echino,’ meaning sea urchin or hedgehog, referring to the spiky appearance and feel of the flower heads.

There are around nine species of Echinacea, but the most commonly known and used are Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower), Echinacea angustifolia (Narrow-leaf Coneflower), and Echinacea pallida (Pale Purple Coneflower).

Echinacea plants are well known for their medicinal properties, and they have been used for centuries by Native Americans for treating various ailments. Echinacea is believed to boost the immune system, and today, it is commonly used to prevent and treat colds, flu, and other infections. However, scientific studies on the effectiveness of Echinacea as a treatment for colds, flu, or other infections have produced mixed results. Some studies show some benefits, while others show no effect. Therefore, it’s recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Echinacea or any other herbal supplement.

How to Grow

Growing Echinacea (Coneflowers) is relatively easy as they are hardy and drought-tolerant. Here are some steps and tips for growing Echinacea:

Choose the Right Variety: There are several species and varieties of Echinacea, each with unique characteristics. The most commonly grown is Echinacea purpurea, but there are many other beautiful and valuable varieties to consider.
Planting Seeds or Seedlings: You can start Echinacea from seeds or purchase young plants from a nursery. If starting from seeds, you can sow them indoors 8-10 weeks before the last expected frost or directly outdoors in spring or fall. If you are planting seedlings, it’s best to plant them in the spring or fall.
Select the Right Spot: Echinacea prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade. Ensure the planting site receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
Prepare the Soil: Echinacea prefers well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. It’s not very particular about soil fertility, but adding some compost to the planting hole can help get the plants off to a good start.
Planting: Plant the seeds or seedlings about 1-3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Cover the seeds with about 1/4 inch of soil and water them well. If planting seedlings, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root ball and plant at the same depth it grew in its container.
Watering: Water the plants regularly until they are established. Once established, Echinacea is relatively drought-tolerant, so you only need to water during prolonged dry spells.
Maintenance: Echinacea requires very little maintenance. You can deadhead the flowers to encourage more blooms, but it’s unnecessary. Leaving the flowers on the plant can provide food for birds during the winter.
Fertilizing: Echinacea only requires a little fertilizer. You can apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring if desired.
Mulching: Applying a layer of mulch around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Dividing: Echinacea plants can be divided every 3-4 years in the spring or fall if they become overcrowded.

Remember, Echinacea is a perennial that will come back year after year. It’s also an excellent plant for attracting butterflies and bees to your garden!

Medicinal Uses

Echinacea has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties, and it is one of the most popular herbal supplements in the United States and Europe. Here are some common medical uses of Echinacea:

Immune System Support: Echinacea is most commonly used to boost the immune system. It is believed to stimulate the body’s immune response by increasing the production of white blood cells and activating macrophages and natural killer cells.
Cold and Flu: Many people take Echinacea at the first sign of a cold or flu to reduce the severity and duration of symptoms. However, research on the effectiveness of Echinacea for preventing or treating colds and flu has produced mixed results. Some studies have found that it can reduce the risk of catching a cold or may help reduce the duration and severity of cold symptoms, while others have found no benefit.
Respiratory Infections: Echinacea is also used to treat other respiratory infections, such as bronchitis and sinusitis.
Wound Healing: Echinacea has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, and it has been used topically to help heal wounds, skin infections, and other skin conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis.
Urinary Tract Infections: Echinacea is sometimes a natural remedy for urinary tract infections (UTIs).
Pain Relief: Echinacea has been used traditionally to relieve pain associated with headaches, toothaches, and sore throat.
Anti-inflammatory: Echinacea has anti-inflammatory properties, which may help reduce inflammation and swelling.
Antioxidant Properties: Echinacea contains compounds with antioxidant properties, which may help protect the body’s cells from damage caused by free radicals.
Antiviral and Antibacterial Properties: Echinacea has antiviral and antibacterial properties, which may help fight off infections.

It’s important to note that while Echinacea is generally considered safe for short-term use, it can cause side effects in some people, such as nausea, dizziness, and rash. It may also interact with certain medications or other herbal supplements. Therefore, it’s always recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Echinacea or any other herbal supplement, especially if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, have an autoimmune disorder, or are taking other medications or supplements.

What to Plant in March in Alabama

Posted on by

What to Plant in March in Alabama

If you’re like me, you’re anxiously waiting for spring to arrive. The daffodils are starting to peek up through the soil, and the trees are beginning to bud. But even though it’s still chilly outside, that doesn’t mean you can’t start planting in your garden! In this blog post, we will discuss what plants do well in March in Alabama. We’ll also give you a few tips on how to care for them. So if you’re ready to get your hands dirty, keep reading!

One of the most important things to remember when planting in Alabama is that it is still possible for frost to occur. So, you’ll want to wait to plant anything that is sensitive to cold until the danger of frost has passed. That being said, there are still plenty of plants that will do well in cooler weather. Here are a few of our favorites:

Vegetables

Lettuce: Lettuce is a cool weather crop that does well in Alabama. It can be planted as early as February and will continue to produce until the weather gets too hot. Just be sure to keep an eye on the temperatures and protect your plants if there is a chance of frost.

Spinach: Spinach is another cool weather crop that can be planted in February or March. It will continue to produce until the weather gets too hot. Just like lettuce, you’ll want to keep an eye on the temperatures and protect your plants if there is a chance of frost.

Radishes: Radishes are a great crop to plant in March. They do well in cool weather and can be harvested just a few weeks after planting.

Carrots: Carrots are another great option for March planting. They take a little longer to mature than other cool weather crops, but they are well worth the wait!

Flowers

Petunia: Petunias will tolerate cold weather and a light frost. They should be kept dry and avoid water sitting on the foliage.

Calibrachoa: Calibrachoa (ka·luh·bruh·kow·uh) will tolerate cold weather and a light frost. They should be kept dry and avoid water sitting on the foliage.

Now that you know what to plant in March, let’s talk about how to care for your new plants. One of the most important things to remember is to not over water during cold periods. Alabama can be quite wet in early Spring, so make sure to give your plants enough water to stay healthy but not too much. Also, be sure to fertilize them every few weeks. This will help them grow strong and produce lots of flowers or vegetables!

So what are you waiting for? Get out there and start planting! Your garden will thank you for it.

Gardening with Spring Annuals in Alabama

Posted on by

Gardening with Spring Annuals in Alabama

Planting annual plants is a great way to bring color and vibrancy to your garden. But heading to the garden center can be a daunting experience. With so many types of plants, it takes time to know which ones are right for you and your needs. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced gardener, here is a guide to help you choose the best plants at your garden center.

The first step in choosing the best plants is knowing what climate zone your home is located in. Northern Alabama is zone 7, and Southern Alabama is zone 8, with parts of Mobile and Baldwin counties in zone 9. Different climates have different temperatures and moisture levels that affect how well certain plants will grow.

Gardening with Spring Annuals in Alabama

Shopping for the Right Plant

Once you know which type of plants are suitable for your climate, it’s time to start looking for healthy specimens at the garden center. When selecting a plant, check if it has healthy white roots and robust foliage growth; avoid plants with yellowing leaves or wilting stems, as they may already be diseased or stressed. Also, look for signs that pests may be infesting the plant.

Before bringing any plant home, it’s essential to understand its specific requirements to provide proper care once planted in your garden. For example, some plants require full sun while others prefer shade; some need more water than others while some tolerate drought better than most; some need regular fertilizing while others don’t require any additional nutrients at all—these are all factors that should be taken into consideration when selecting a plant from the garden center. Researching or talking with garden center staff will ensure you choose only those plants that fit your existing landscape and match your gardening style and skill level.

To Bloom or Not to Bloom is the Question

If you’ve ever gone to the nursery or garden center and seen the lush, vibrant blooms of plants that have already begun flowering, you may be tempted to buy those immediately. After all, who wouldn’t want a beautiful garden full of color? However, marketing has created a myth that blooming plants are better than plants that still need to bloom. And it couldn’t be further from the truth! Plants that have yet to begin blooming are better able to handle the stress of transplanting.

When you transplant a plant, it experiences physiological stress—it essentially goes into shock as it adjusts to its new environment. When a plant is experiencing stress, it takes energy away from processes like rooting, foliage growth, flowering, or fruit production. That means if you transplant a blooming plant, less energy will be available for root and foliage growth because so much was used to produce flowers. On the other hand, if you transplant a non-blooming plant, more of its energy can go into rooting and foliage growth before producing flowers.

Plants not yet in bloom offer numerous advantages over blooming plants when it comes to successful gardens—from less stress due to an abundance of energy available for root and foliage growth after transplanting to improved success rates due to reduced disease issues from stress. So next time you head out shopping for your garden or landscaping project, remember that although those beautiful blooms may look enticing, non-blooming plants can provide even greater success and blooming rewards down the road!

Adding Compost and Fertilizer to Improve Soil Quality

Have you ever noticed that some gardens are lush and vibrant while others look like barren wastelands? The difference is often due to the soil quality. Poor soil can lead to unhealthy plants, low yields, and discolored foliage. Fortunately, there’s an easy fix: composting or adding fertilizer. Let’s explore how these two methods can help improve your soil!

Composting breaks down organic matter, such as leaves and kitchen scraps, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. It’s easy to add beneficial bacteria and nutrients to your garden without spending money on costly fertilizers or additives. Compost also helps improve the structure of your soil by increasing its water-holding capacity. Not only will this make your plants healthier, but it will also help reduce water waste! Additionally, composting is incredibly easy—all you need is a large container (or even just a pile) and some kitchen scraps or yard clippings.

Fertilizer is another excellent way to amend your soil. Unlike composting, which relies on bacteria and fungi to break down materials over time, fertilizer directly adds nutrients to the soil through nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other micronutrients. Applying fertilizer regularly can provide a quick boost of nutrition for your plants and encourage growth. However, it’s important not to overdo it; too much fertilizer can burn plants or cause them to become leggy due to excessive phosphorus levels.

Whether you choose composting or fertilizing (or both!), improving the quality of your soil with either method will result in healthier plants that yield greater harvests than before. By taking the time to amend your soil now with either compost or fertilizer, you’ll enjoy a more bountiful garden for years to come! Whether you’re a beginner gardener looking for tips on getting started or an experienced green thumb looking for ways to optimize your current gardening efforts, adding compost or fertilizer should be high on the list of things you do!

Deadhead Flowers for Continuous Blooms

Did you know deadheading flowers can help keep your garden healthy and vibrant? Deadheading is the process of removing spent blooms from plants to encourage new growth. It’s an essential yet simple gardening task that can significantly impact your garden’s appearance.

Deadheading flowers can help promote new growth, create fuller plants with more blooms, and improve overall plant health. When you deadhead a flower, it redirects nutrients back into the plant instead of allowing them to be used in the development of seeds. This means that energy is directed towards creating more blooms and foliage. Additionally, by removing spent flowers, you are reducing the chances of disease.

Start by snipping off any wilted or brown flowers near the base of the flower with sharp scissors or pruners. Be sure to cut only a little into unopened buds, or plant stems. Once all the old flowers have been removed, take a few steps back and check if any more faded blooms need removing before moving on to another plant in your garden!

Deadheading spent flowers is essential for keeping your garden looking vibrant and healthy throughout the growing season. By removing spent blossoms from plants as soon as they begin to fade, you can promote new growth and enjoy longer-lasting blooms in your garden!

Following these tips can help ensure your spring annuals have the best chance for survival and can put on a show all season long!

Planting and Growing Potatoes in Alabama

Posted on by

Planting and Growing Potatoes in Alabama

If you’re an Alabamian looking to plant potatoes, the timing of your planting is essential. Plant too soon, and the cold temperatures may cause damage to the crop; plant too late, and there may need to be more time for a successful harvest before Summer temperatures. Fortunately, with some knowledge and planning, you can ensure that your potato-planting project will yield a bountiful harvest. This blog post is for the cool season type of potatoes. Check out the Sweet Potato page for warm season potatoes.

When To Plant Potatoes In Alabama

The best time to plant potatoes in Alabama is typically between early February and early March. This gives them plenty of time to fully develop before the hot summer months arrive. It’s essential to remember that each variety of potato has its own needs regarding planting times, so be sure to check the instructions on your seed potato for specifics.

Before you start planting, make sure that your soil is ready. The ideal soil temperature should be between 55°F and 65°F (12-18°C). You can check this by taking a six or eight inch-deep soil sample from several different points in your garden area and measuring the temperature with a thermometer. Once the soil has reached this temperature range, you can begin planting.

One important thing to remember when planting potatoes in Alabama is that there are two main types—early and late varieties—and each requires different timing for optimal success. Early varieties are best planted early, while late varieties should wait until mid-March or later. Additionally, certain areas within Alabama may require different planting times due to differences in climate or terrain; talk to local gardeners or specialists at your local garden center for advice specific to your area if needed.

In conclusion, timing is critical if you’re an Alabamian looking to plant potatoes this year! Aim for February through March as an optimal time frame for most potato varieties. However, always double-check the instructions on your seed potato before getting started, and remember that certain areas within Alabama may require different planting times due to differences in climate or terrain. With some knowledge and planning, you can ensure that your potato-planting project yields a delicious harvest!

Planting Potatoes in the Right Soil

Potatoes are a hardy crop that grows well in various soils and climates. However, growing them successfully means understanding which type of soil is best for planting potatoes. Let’s look at what makes the perfect soil for planting your potatoes.

The ideal soil for growing potatoes is loamy soil with good drainage. Loam is a combination of sand, silt, and clay particles that help structure the soil and enable it to hold both water and nutrients. This soil also has plenty of organic matter, which helps create an environment that encourages healthy potato growth.

If your soil is less loamy than you would like, there are ways to improve it before planting your potatoes. You can do this by adding compost or manure to the soil, which will help add more organic material and improve its texture over time. You should also ensure your soil has plenty of drainage by testing it with a shovel or spade and providing it doesn’t become saturated when watering it.

The pH level of your soil is another important factor when it comes to growing potatoes successfully. The optimal pH level for potato plants is between 4.8 and 5.4, but they will still grow if the pH level is slightly higher or lower than this range as long as other environmental factors are favorable for their growth. To test the pH level of your soil, use an inexpensive testing kit from your local gardening store or nursery.

The Basics of Planting and Harvesting Potatoes

When planting potatoes, you want to ensure they are buried deep enough in the soil so their stems have plenty of room to grow and develop. Generally, you want your potatoes planted 4-6 inches into the soil. However, this may vary depending on your climate and the type of soil you’re working with. If your soil is heavy and moist, you may need to plant it closer to six inches down; if it is light and sandy, closer to four inches will do.

You also want to ensure you leave about 12-18 inches between each potato when planting them in a row. This gives each potato ample space for its roots and stem growth. This spacing also applies when planting multiple rows of potatoes—it’s important not to overcrowd them! Potato plants will yield more abundantly when given plenty of space.

It usually takes about 70-80 days from planting for your potatoes to be ready for harvest! Digging only a little deep when harvesting potatoes is essential, as this can harm or damage the tubers while growing underground. The best way is to use a garden fork or hoe around the base of the plant, gently pushing away some dirt until you see a few tubers near the surface, which can then be easily pulled up from the ground by hand. Be sure not to wait too long, though – once potato tops turn yellow and begin dying off, and it means that they are done growing, and any remaining tubers left in the ground won’t mature enough before winter sets in, so they must be harvested quickly!

Planting potatoes can be simple and easy. If you know what depth you should bury them at and give them adequate spacing between plants, you’ll have no problem achieving a bountiful harvest come harvest time! Just remember: Plant your potatoes 4-6 inches down into the soil with 12-18 inches between each potato when planting in rows or beds, wait until 70-80 days from planting time has passed before harvesting, and use a garden fork or hoe around the base of your plants when harvesting instead of digging deeply so as not disturb any still-growing tubers underground! With these tips in mind, happy gardening!