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Cabbage loves a cool breeze. Alabama gives it two chances each year. We get soft winters. We get long falls. That means we can grow crisp heads for slaw, soups, and sautés almost all year if we plan well. In this guide, we walk through when to plant, how to plant, and how to keep those heads tight and sweet. In other words, we keep it simple, local, and doable.

Why Cabbage Fits Alabama

Cabbage is a cool-season crop. It grows best when days are mild and nights are cool. Heat makes it cranky. Cold makes it sweeter. Alabama offers both mild springs and long, gentle falls. That is our edge.

It can handle light frost.
It hates long stretches above 80–85°F.
It tastes sweeter after a nip of frost.

So our goal is simple. We set plants so they size up in cool weather and finish before steady heat.

Know Your Alabama Seasons

Alabama is not one uniform garden. North Alabama cools first and warms later. Central Alabama sits in the middle. The Gulf Coast stays warm longer. That is why our planting dates shift by region. But most of all, the idea stays the same: spring and fall windows.

North Alabama (Tennessee line to roughly Birmingham’s latitude): cooler overall, earlier frosts.
Central Alabama (Birmingham–Montgomery band): moderate, long fall.
South Alabama and the Coast (Montgomery south to Mobile and Baldwin Counties): mild winters, late frosts.

Instead of chasing exact dates, watch your local last spring frost and first fall frost. Cabbage plants are tough, but tiny seedlings still like gentle care. Plan with that in mind.

Quick Timing at a Glance

Use this as a starting point. Adjust a week or two for your yard’s microclimate.

Spring Plantings

North Alabama:
- Start seeds indoors: late January to mid-February.
- Transplant outside: early to mid-March (2–4 weeks before last frost).
Central Alabama:
- Start seeds indoors: early to late January.
- Transplant outside: late February to early March.
South Alabama / Gulf Coast:
- Start seeds indoors: December to early January.
- Transplant outside: January to early February.

Fall Plantings (often the best season here)

North Alabama:
- Start seeds indoors or in shade: late June to mid-July.
- Transplant outside: late July to mid-August.
Central Alabama:
- Start seeds: early to late July.
- Transplant: early to late August.
South Alabama / Gulf Coast:
- Start seeds: late July to August.
- Transplant: late August to September (even early October in very mild spots).

In other words, spring sets go out a bit before your last frost. Fall sets go out so they head up in October–December, when nights cool and flavor shines.

Choosing the Right Variety for Alabama

Heat tolerance matters in our state. So does timing. Pick varieties that match your window and plate.

Early, small heads (55–70 days): ‘Golden Acre,’ ‘Early Jersey Wakefield,’ ‘Copenhagen Market.’ These are quick and great for spring when heat is coming.
Midseason, solid heads (70–85 days): ‘Bravo,’ ‘Blue Vantage,’ ‘Cheers.’ These handle our fall heat better and finish strong when nights cool.
Red types: ‘Red Express’ (early), ‘Ruby Perfection’ (later, dense). Add color and crunch to salads.
Savoy (crinkled leaves): ‘Savoy Ace,’ ‘Deadon’ (colors deepen with cold). Tender and beautiful for winter plates.
Storage types (firmer, later): choose mid-to-late varieties if you want to hold heads longer in cool storage.

Small heads fit tight spaces and mature fast. Large heads need more days, more room, and steady moisture. Pick what fits your schedule and bed space.

Start Seeds or Buy Transplants?

Both work. Here’s how to choose.

Start Seeds If You Want…

Exact varieties.
Strong, hardened plants on your schedule.
Lower cost per plant.

Buy Transplants If You Want…

Speed.
A head start when time is tight.
Less fuss with germination in summer heat.

Seed Starting Basics

Start 4–6 weeks before outdoor transplant time.
Use a quality seed mix and clean trays.
Keep seeds cool for fall starts. Germination drops in high heat. Use shade, airflow, and bottom watering.
Provide strong light.
Harden off for 5–7 days before planting out. Set trays outside in light shade. Increase sun and time each day. Ease them into wind.

Bed Prep the Alabama Way

Our soils vary. North Alabama may have heavier red clay. The Gulf Coast often has sandy soils that drain fast. Cabbage wants rich, well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil.

Target pH: 6.2–6.8. Lime acidic soil as needed.
Add organic matter: 2–3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure worked into the top 8–10 inches.
Raised beds: Warm faster, drain faster, and keep roots happier after big rains.
Fertility: Cabbage is a heavy feeder. Mix a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or compost into the bed before planting. Save some nitrogen for side-dressing later.

Spacing

Small heads: 12–15 inches between plants, 18–24 inches between rows.
Medium heads: 18 inches between plants, 24–30 inches between rows.
Large heads: 20–24 inches between plants, 30–36 inches between rows.

Tighter spacing gives smaller heads but more per bed. Wider spacing grows bigger heads and boosts airflow.

Transplanting: A Simple Step-by-Step

Water the trays an hour before planting.
Plant at the same depth as in the cell. Do not bury the crown.
Firm the soil around each plug to remove air pockets.
Water in well. Add a gentle starter (like fish emulsion or a balanced liquid feed).
Mulch 2–3 inches with straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves. Mulch keeps roots cool and steady.
Use row cover for the first 2–3 weeks. It reduces transplant shock, wind stress, and early caterpillars.

Direct Seeding?
You can, but fall heat makes germination tricky. If you try it, sow a little deeper (¼–½ inch), keep the top inch of soil moist, and give light shade. Thin to the final spacing once seedlings are sturdy.

Water, Feeding, and Mulch

Cabbage loves even moisture. Uneven water can cause split heads and stress.

Watering: Aim for 1 to 1.5 inches per week, more in sandy soils. Morning is best. Soak the root zone, not the leaves.
Feeding plan:
- Pre-plant: Compost or slow-release fertilizer.
- Side-dress #1: 3–4 weeks after transplanting with a nitrogen boost along the row.
- Side-dress #2: When heads are golf-ball size, give a lighter boost.
- Stop heavy feeding once heads start to firm. Too much late nitrogen can cause splits.
Mulch: Keeps roots cool, stops weeds, and saves water. Push mulch away from stems so crowns stay dry.

Micronutrients note: On very sandy soils, boron can be low. Deficiency shows as brown, hollow centers. Instead of guessing, send a soil test before the season. If boron is low, follow the test’s rates. A little goes a long way.

Heat and Cold Management

Alabama heat is our main challenge. We turn that into a plan.

For fall starts: Use 30% shade cloth over hoops the first 2–3 weeks. This cuts heat while roots establish.
Row covers: Great in spring and fall. They warm cool mornings and block moths that lay eggs on leaves.
Frost handling: Cabbage tolerates light frost; it can taste better after it. Cover only for hard freezes or if plants are very young.
Bolting (early flowering): Usually from heat or stress. Keep plants evenly watered and avoid pushing spring crops deep into May heat.

The Alabama Pest Parade (and How We Win)

We have insects. We also have smart ways to stay ahead. Integrated pest management (IPM) keeps things simple and safe.

Caterpillars (Imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, cross-striped worm)

Symptoms: Chewed leaves, green droppings, small green or gray caterpillars.
Prevention: Row covers right after transplanting. Check leaves weekly.
Control: Hand-pick when you see them. Use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) for young larvae. Spinosad is another option used carefully. Spray late in the day and follow labels.

Harlequin Bugs

Symptoms: Bright orange-and-black shield bugs, clustered on leaves. Leaves look shot-holed and wilted.
Prevention: Remove wild mustard and weedy brassicas nearby.
Control: Hand-pick into soapy water. Use row cover early. Plant a small mustard “trap crop” nearby, then remove it with the pests on it.

Aphids

Symptoms: Sticky residue, curled leaves, clusters under leaves.
Control: Blast with water, encourage lady beetles, or use insecticidal soap or neem. Avoid heavy nitrogen, which can spike aphids.

Slugs and Snails

Symptoms: Ragged holes and silver trails, worst in cool, wet spells.
Control: Keep mulch tidy. Use iron phosphate baits. Hand-pick at dusk.

Diseases to Watch

Black Rot (bacterial)

Clues: Yellow V-shaped lesions starting at the leaf edge, dark veins.
Prevention: Buy clean transplants. Rotate brassicas every 3–4 years. Do not work plants when wet. Remove infected leaves.
Watering: Drip or soaker hoses beat overhead watering.

Downy Mildew (fungal-like)

Clues: Pale, fuzzy patches under leaves in cool, wet weather.
Prevention: Good airflow and spacing. Water in the morning. Remove badly infected leaves.

Clubroot

Clues: Swollen, club-like roots; plants wilt on warm days and fail to size up.
Prevention: Keep pH near 6.8–7.0. Rotate for several years. Do not move soil from infected beds.

Good hygiene wins half the battle. Clean tools, remove crop debris, and rotate families. In other words, give new plants a clean start.

Harvest: The “Bowling Ball” Test

Cabbage tells you when it is ready. Heads turn firm and heavy.

Press the head. It should feel like a bowling ball.
Cut at the base with a sharp knife, leaving a few wrapper leaves for protection.
Stump sprouting: Some gardeners notch the stump to get a few small “cabbage sprouts” later. These are bonus minis for stir-fries.

Splitting: If rain is coming and heads are close to ready, harvest early or gently twist the plant to break a few feeder roots. This slows water uptake and reduces splits.

Storage: Keep heads cold and humid. The crisper drawer works well. Do not wash until you use it. Many heads hold for weeks, even longer with steady cold.

Succession Planting and Staggered Harvests

Instead of one big harvest day, try small waves.

Plant every 2 weeks within your window.
Mix early and midseason varieties.
Use tighter spacing for quick, small heads early.
Shift to wider spacing for larger fall heads.

This rhythm spreads your workload and your meals.

Companion Ideas (and One to Avoid)

Good neighbors: Dill, onions, garlic, and thyme can confuse pests and fit the bed edges.
Trap crop: A small patch of mustard draws harlequin bugs away from your cabbage. Remove the trap crop if it gets swarmed.
Avoid: Planting brassicas after brassicas. Rotate to peas, beans, or roots the next season. In other words, keep the family moving.

Containers and Small Spaces

Yes, you can grow cabbage in pots.

Container size: At least 5 gallons per plant; 12 inches deep.
Mix: High-quality potting mix with compost blended in.
Water: Check daily in warm spells; pots dry fast.
Fertilize: Light feed at planting, then side-dress or use a balanced liquid feed every 2–3 weeks until heads start to firm.
Placement: Full sun in winter and spring. Light afternoon shade in early fall heat.

Troubleshooting: What Went Wrong?

Heads not forming

Causes: Heat stress, too much shade, crowded spacing, or late nitrogen.
Fix: Plant earlier in fall or earlier in spring; give 6+ hours of sun; thin or replant with wider spacing; stop heavy feeding once heads begin.

Bitter taste

Causes: Heat and drought stress.
Fix: Choose fall timing; mulch; water evenly.

Yellow leaves at the base

Causes: Normal aging, low nitrogen, or wet roots.
Fix: Remove old leaves; side-dress once if plants are still sizing; improve drainage.

Holes in leaves

Causes: Caterpillars or beetles.
Fix: Row cover early; scout weekly; hand-pick; use Bt for young caterpillars.

Plants topple or wilt midday

Causes: Clubroot, root damage, or dry soil.
Fix: Check roots; adjust pH to 6.8–7.0; rotate fields; water deeply.

Month-by-Month Planner (North • Central • South)

Use this as a friendly rhythm. Shift a week or two for your spot.

January

North: Start planning and seed orders.
Central: Start seeds late month for spring.
South: Transplant spring cabbage now; protect on cold snaps.

February

North: Start seeds indoors.
Central: Transplant late month on mild days.
South: Transplant and maintain steady moisture.

March

North: Transplant early to mid-month; use row cover.
Central: Spring crop growing fast; feed lightly.
South: Watch heat; harvest early varieties as they firm.

April

North: Heads sizing; harvest early types.
Central: Harvest early; shade cloth if warm.
South: Finish spring harvest before heat kicks in.

May

North: Wrap up spring cabbage.
Central: Wrap up; pull plants before deep heat.
South: Clean beds; plant summer cover crops.

June

North: Prep for fall; solarize or rest beds.
Central: Same; plan varieties.
South: Plan fall; gather shade cloth and row cover.

July

North: Start fall seeds late month in shade.
Central: Start fall seeds.
South: Start seeds late month.

August

North: Transplant fall sets late July–mid-August; use shade.
Central: Transplant all month; feed lightly after establishment.
South: Transplant late August–September; keep seedlings cool.

September

North: Plants growing; side-dress once.
Central: Keep even water; watch for caterpillars.
South: Transplanting continues early; row cover on hot days.

October

North: Heads begin to firm; enjoy cool nights.
Central: Harvest early heads; let midseason types size.
South: Strong growth; first frost still far.

November

North: Main harvest; protect on hard freezes.
Central: Harvest sweet fall heads.
South: Harvest begins; flavor deepens.

December

North: Finish harvest; store heads.
Central: Keep picking; protect during hard freezes.
South: Peak harvest; enjoy the sweetest cabbage of the year.

A Simple Alabama Planting Recipe

Pick your window: spring or fall. In Alabama, fall is usually easier.
Choose your variety: quick early types for spring; sturdy midseason for fall.
Start seeds 4–6 weeks ahead or buy healthy transplants.
Prep beds: compost, correct pH, and set your spacing.
Transplant on a mild day: water in, mulch, and add row cover.
Feed twice: once at 3–4 weeks, once at golf-ball head size.
Scout weekly: remove pests early; keep water even.
Harvest firm heads: twist or cut, then chill.
Rotate beds: move brassicas to a new spot next season.

Instead of making it complex, we follow these steps and keep our rhythm.

Pro Tips from Local Beds

Stagger your plantings. Two or three waves spread the harvest.
Use shade cloth for fall transplants. Two weeks of shade can make or break success.
Do not overfeed late. Too much nitrogen late means soft heads and splits.
Keep leaves dry in the evening. Morning watering limits disease.
Try a mustard trap crop. Sacrifice a small patch to save your main beds.
Soil test every year or two. It saves money and prevents guesswork.

What to Cook When Harvest Hits

You grew it. Now let’s enjoy it.

Sweet slaw with vinegar and a touch of sugar after the first frost.
Cabbage steaks seared in a cast-iron pan.
Stuffed leaves simmered low and slow.
Quick kimchi for a tangy bite.
Stir-fried ribbons with garlic and sesame.

After more than a season of care, one head can feed many plates.

Frequently Missed Details (That Matter Here)

Wind: Row covers reduce wind stress on young plants, especially on open hills.
Mulch timing: Mulch right after transplanting. Waiting even a week can spike weed pressure.
Weed edges: Keep pathways clean. Pests like to hide at bed edges.
Plant labels: Mark variety and date. This helps you learn your own perfect timing.
Cleanup: Pull stumps and old leaves at season’s end. This breaks pest cycles.

Your Alabama Cabbage Calendar, Your Way

We all garden on our own patch. Your hill may be breezier. Your fence may cast afternoon shade. Your soil may drain like sand or hold like clay. That is okay. We work with it. We adjust by a week here or there. We switch varieties if spring runs hot. We lean into fall for sweetness and steady growth.

In other words, we do not chase perfection. We build a simple plan and follow it. The plants do the rest.

Crisp Heads, Calm Steps

We can do this together. Pick the right window. Start strong with rich soil and steady water. Protect young plants, then lighten the touch as nights cool. Keep watch, not worry. After more than a few weeks, you will feel that firm head under your palm. It will feel like a small win with a big flavor. And it will taste like Alabama—cool mornings, warm afternoons, and a garden that fits the seasons we share.